○ The blog

Travel blogs and honest guides from the road

Where to stay, what to do, the hidden gems worth a detour and whether each place lives up to the hype. Real trips from 18 months of full-time travel. 53 countries and counting.

A silhouette framed by trees at sunrise on the beach in Da Nang
Travel tips · Long stays

How We Choose Somewhere to Live and Work While Travelling

Why Da Nang is our favourite longer-term base, and what our wider travels taught us about accommodation, routine and daily costs.

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Ellen beside our four-wheel drive reflected on Bolivia's Uyuni salt flats at sunrise
Travel tips · South America

South America Travel Tips: What We'd Do Differently in Argentina, Chile and Bolivia

What we'd book earlier, what we'd pack differently and the small decisions that mattered across Argentina, Chile and Bolivia.

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Daniel on a rock looking at the Fitz Roy massif above Laguna de los Tres
Trip planning · Patagonia

Planning a Trip to Patagonia Without Camping

Six nights across El Calafate, El Chaltén and Puerto Natales, what it cost us each, and what I'd book first.

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Sunrise on Mount Fitz Roy above Laguna de los Tres
Hiking · Patagonia

The Fitz Roy Sunrise Hike Without Camping

How two non-hikers did Laguna de los Tres: the 1:45am start, the hard last kilometre and the way down nobody warns you about.

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The jagged Fitz Roy skyline under a clear blue sky
Hiking · Patagonia

We Hiked the Mountain on the Patagonia Logo

In sneakers and A$77 pants, at 1am. Here's what we honestly thought of the view, the climb and the way down.

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Ellen in a beanie and head torch at the trail sign 2 km from Laguna de los Tres
Packing · Patagonia

What to Wear for the Fitz Roy Hike

Layer by layer, what I wore to Laguna de los Tres, what we ate, and the shoes I'd never wear again.

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Inside our timber cabin at KUNTUR 2 Cabañas in El Chaltén
Where to stay · Patagonia

Where to Stay in El Chaltén for the Fitz Roy Hike

Why the trailhead end of town matters, the cabin we stayed in, and five places rated above 9 on Booking.

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El Chaltén's main avenue and the mountains at dusk
Travel guide · Patagonia

El Chaltén: What It's Like and Why I'd Stay Longer

Ski-town vibes in hiking summer, where we ate and what it cost, and why three nights beats two.

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The coach to El Chaltén at the bus terminal
Getting around · Patagonia

El Calafate to El Chaltén by Bus

US$35, about three hours, the tax at window 9, the 15% cash discount and the seats to avoid.

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Ellen photographing the face of Perito Moreno Glacier
Glaciers · Patagonia

Perito Moreno Glacier Without a Tour Bus

A private driver at opening, park entry bought the night before, and why we skipped the boat.

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Our second El Calafate Airbnb, a studio with a bed, desk and our bags
Where to stay · Patagonia

Where to Stay in El Calafate

The centre or by the bus terminal, the two places we stayed, and six picks rated above 9.

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The Paseo de Artesanos market sign in El Calafate
Travel guide · Patagonia

El Calafate: What We Did and Where We Ate

Coffee roasted in front of you, Maki Go, the market, cash and no Uber, and what I'd add.

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A tour boat passing an iceberg in front of Perito Moreno Glacier
Tours · Patagonia

Perito Moreno Glacier Tours Compared

Boat, ice trek, kayak or walkways, and why we chose a private driver and skipped the boat.

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Daniel looking out at the face of Perito Moreno Glacier
Glaciers · Patagonia

Perito Moreno Glacier: 6 Things to Know

Book early, buy park entry online, get a private driver, and decide on the boat early.

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Ellen drinking from her water bottle at the Perito Moreno Glacier railing
Costs · Patagonia

Is Patagonia Expensive? Six Nights for A$1,255

Our real per-person costs without camping: stays, buses, the glacier, Torres del Paine and food.

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The coach at the Chilean border post on the way to Puerto Natales
Getting around · Patagonia

El Calafate to Puerto Natales by Bus

The declaration form, two border crossings and why five hours took seven hours twenty.

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Ellen sitting in front of a lake in Torres del Paine
Day trips · Patagonia

Torres del Paine Day Tour, No W Trek

The day the weather turned: the Milodon Cave, guanacos, flamingos and the cloud.

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Dinner at Baguales Brewpub in Puerto Natales
Travel guide · Patagonia

Puerto Natales: Where to Stay and What to Do

The hostel we stayed in, the upgrade I'd book, Baguales and the tour pickup.

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Ellen sitting on a rock at Laguna de los Tres before sunrise
Where to stay · Patagonia

Where to Stay in Patagonia Without Camping

Which part of each town, what we slept in, and the places I'd book.

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The front of Perito Moreno Glacier
Best time · Patagonia

Best Time to Visit Patagonia

What late January gave us, why buffer days matter more than the month.

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Ellen photographing the moon over the Atacama Desert at sunset
Itineraries · Chile

San Pedro de Atacama Itinerary: Our Three-Night Stop Before Bolivia

Our three-night San Pedro de Atacama itinerary without a car: Moon Valley, El Tatio, our stay and what we skipped before crossing into Bolivia.

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Pale salt deposits and layered rock in Valle de la Luna, Chile
Where to stay · Chile

Where to Stay in San Pedro de Atacama: Our Stay and Two Places I’d Compare

Where to stay in San Pedro de Atacama: our Anpaymi room, a kitchen-friendly alternative and central Terrantai, with the details to check before booking.

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Wetlands and snow-dusted mountains on our El Tatio excursion
Day trips · Chile

El Tatio Geysers Tour: What Our Early Morning Was Really Like

Our El Tatio excursion from San Pedro: the early start, cold, breakfast and return stops, plus current park rules and what to check before booking.

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Sand dunes and rugged ridges in Valle de la Luna near San Pedro de Atacama
Day trips · Chile

Valle de la Luna, Chile: Our Afternoon Tour from San Pedro de Atacama

Our Valle de la Luna afternoon in Chile: desert scenery, salt formations, changing light and practical tips for a tour from San Pedro de Atacama.

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Our group and four-wheel drive reflected on the Uyuni salt flats at sunrise
Road trips · Bolivia

San Pedro de Atacama to Uyuni: Our Three-Day Salt Flats Tour

Our one-way San Pedro to Uyuni tour: three days, two very different overnight stays, lagoons, hot springs and February salt-flat reflections.

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Ellen standing on the bright white Uyuni salt flats in daylight
When to visit · Bolivia

Best Time to Visit the Uyuni Salt Flats: Our February Mirror Experience

Choosing when to visit Uyuni: our February mirror reflections, wet versus dry salt flats, seasonal expectations and questions to ask before booking.

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Daniel standing on a dry section of the Uyuni salt flats
Destination comparison · Bolivia

Atacama vs Uyuni: Is It Worth Visiting Both? Our Experience

Atacama or Uyuni, or both? We compare our San Pedro base with the three-day Bolivia crossing: scenery, comfort, overlap and which trip might suit you.

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Red water and white shoreline below a mountain at Laguna Colorada
Places to visit · Bolivia

Laguna Colorada, Bolivia: Visiting the Red Lagoon on Our Salt Flats Tour

Our Laguna Colorada stop on the Bolivia crossing: red water, flamingos, altitude and what to check when choosing a multiday salt-flat tour.

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Ellen beside a wooden beach entrance with the ocean behind her in Paje, Zanzibar
Trip planning · Zanzibar

Planning a Trip to Zanzibar: Which Coast, What to Book, What It Costs

The tide nobody warns you about, how long you actually need, and the four things I would book before flying.

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Our boat guide lifting the anchor above turquoise water near Mnemba, Zanzibar
Things to do · Zanzibar

Best Things to Do in Zanzibar: Our Favourites After 17 Nights

Our favourite things to do in Zanzibar after 17 nights: Maalum, Stone Town, Mnemba, Paje beach days, Jambiani and Nungwi sunsets, with our photos and tips.

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Palm trees, a swimming pool and the ocean at ENVI Paje in Zanzibar
Honest review · Zanzibar

Is Zanzibar Worth Visiting? Our Honest Take After 17 Nights

Is Zanzibar worth visiting? What we loved after 17 nights in Paje and Nungwi, the tide surprise, food, beach days and who I think the island suits.

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Ellen swimming in clear sunlit water at Maalum Cave in Paje, Zanzibar
Experiences · Zanzibar

Maalum Cave, Zanzibar: My Honest Review & How to Plan Your Swim

Our Maalum Cave swim in Paje: what we paid, booking direct, the quiet morning slot, what was included and photos from our July Zanzibar visit.

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Fresh coconut and pineapple above turquoise water after snorkelling near Mnemba Island
Experiences · Zanzibar

Mnemba Island Tour, Zanzibar: Our Snorkelling Day & What I'd Check Before Booking

Our Mnemba boat trip from Nungwi: snorkelling, dolphins, the real per-person cost, sandbank tides and the questions I would ask before booking.

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Turquoise water framed by a weathered stone opening on Prison Island, Zanzibar
Day trips · Zanzibar

Stone Town & Prison Island, Zanzibar: Our One-Day Guide

Our Stone Town and Prison Island day in Zanzibar: an early boat, giant tortoises, market wandering, Yeoyum breakfast and what to check before booking.

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Ellen beside a palm tree, white sand and the ocean at Paje Beach, Zanzibar
Beaches · Zanzibar

4 Best Beaches in Zanzibar: Our Honest Comparison

Paje, Nungwi, Jambiani or Mtende? Our Zanzibar beach comparison after 17 nights, with swimming, tides, sunsets, stays and the timing mistake we made.

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Palm fronds over boats and sunset beach seating at Bobo in Nungwi, Zanzibar
Trip planning · Zanzibar

Best Time to Visit Zanzibar: Weather, Tides & Our July Experience

When to visit Zanzibar, with our July experience, seasonal rainfall guidance, Paje tides, Nungwi beach days and how we would plan around the weather.

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Vendors and produce at the market in Stone Town, Zanzibar
Travel costs · Zanzibar

Is Zanzibar Expensive? Our Actual Travel Costs in 2026

Our Zanzibar costs: A$84.40 per person per recorded day before accommodation, real Paje and Nungwi room bills, meals, tours and practical budget tips.

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Golden sunset over the sea and boats off Nungwi, photographed from Maisha
Local guide · Zanzibar

Nungwi, Zanzibar: Things to Do, Where to Stay & Our Four-Night Guide

Our four-night Nungwi guide: beach time, sunset dinners, Siri Beach Lodge, Hanoi House and a Mnemba boat trip, with photos from our July Zanzibar stay.

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A traditional sailing boat and colourful kites over the turquoise water at Paje beach
Local guide · Zanzibar

Paje, Zanzibar: Things to Do, Where to Eat & Our 13-Night Guide

Paje after 13 nights: the restaurants we loved, beach tides, Chokoro House, ENVI, Maalum and Jambiani outings, with our own Zanzibar photos and vlog.

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Aerial view of an oceanfront villa and private pool on the sand at Paje in Zanzibar
Where to stay · Zanzibar

Best Area to Stay in Zanzibar: Paje or Nungwi After 17 Nights

How the tide decides your coast, what each side costs, and the six places I would book across Paje, Jambiani and Nungwi.

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Ellen standing with a bicycle above the turquoise coast of La Digue in Seychelles
Trip planning · Seychelles

Planning a Trip to Seychelles: What to Book and How to Island-Hop

The practical guide we wanted before our first trip, including our 8-day route, ferries, cars, stays and real costs.

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A palm tree arcing over the turquoise water of Anse Lazio on Praslin, Seychelles, with catamarans anchored offshore
Island guide · Seychelles

Praslin, Seychelles: Three Nights, One Hire Car and What It Is Really Like

The rough ferry, whether you need a car, the morning we lost to rain, and the two famous things we did not do.

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A woman sitting on a granite boulder in shallow turquoise water at the secret beach past Anse Lazio, Praslin, Seychelles
Beaches · Seychelles

Anse Lazio, Praslin: We Found a Secret Beach Just Past the End of It

Walk to the far end, turn right, over the boulders, and there is a beach with nobody on it. How we found it, and where to park.

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A man standing on a granite boulder above turquoise water at Anse Source d'Argent, La Digue, Seychelles, with an island on the horizon
Island guide · Seychelles

La Digue, Seychelles: Two Nights on an Island With More Bikes Than People

What the bikes really cost, how to have Anse Source d'Argent to yourself, and the beach we were told not to swim at.

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Ellen at the water's edge at Petite Anse on Mahe in Seychelles
Honest review · Seychelles

Is Seychelles Worth Visiting? Our Honest Answer After 12 Days

What made it a 10 out of 10, what we did not love and who I think should actually book the trip.

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A giant Aldabra tortoise on Curieuse Island in Seychelles
Island day trip · Seychelles

Curieuse Island Day Trip: Exact Cost and Honest Review

The exact tour we booked from Praslin, what it cost and what the tortoise, island walk, barbecue and snorkelling day was really like.

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A rainbow above Beau Vallon beach and the green mountains of Mahe in Seychelles
Travel costs · Seychelles

Is Seychelles Expensive? Our Real 12-Day Costs for Two

Every dollar from our trip across three islands, including stays, ferries, cars, food, activities and international flights.

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Aerial view of granite boulders and turquoise shallows at Anse Source d'Argent on La Digue
Best beaches · Seychelles

10 Best Beaches in Seychelles: What They Are Really Like

Our honest picks for swimming, scenery and access across Mahe, Praslin and La Digue, including the beaches too rough for us in August.

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Aerial view of hillside villas above Petite Anse beach on Mahe in Seychelles
Where to stay · Seychelles

Where to Stay in Seychelles: Mahé, Praslin or La Digue?

Four places we actually stayed, what each cost and the one island base we would change next time.

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Aerial view of turquoise water, white sand and palms at Petite Anse on Mahe in Seychelles
Things to do · Seychelles

16 Best Things to Do in Seychelles Across 3 Islands

What we actually did across Mahe, Praslin and La Digue, from giant tortoises and hidden beaches to a free outdoor gym.

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White sand, granite boulders and palms above turquoise water at Petite Anse on Mahe, Seychelles, with a woman lying on the beach
Best time to visit · Seychelles

Best Time to Visit Seychelles: What August Is Really Like

We went in the windiest month of the year and swam nearly every day. The one rule for picking a beach in the trade wind season, and when we would go instead.

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An elephant seen from inside a safari vehicle at Welgevonden Game Reserve
Safari · South Africa

Did We See the Big Five in Seven Days? Our Honest Record

Every article on this hedges. Here is exactly what we saw and when. Four came fast, and the leopard took until day six and lasted about eleven seconds.

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Close up of a giraffe's head and neck against a clear blue sky at Welgevonden
Safari · South Africa

Safari in July: We Froze, and It Was the Right Month

Nights below 3C, a fireplace as the only heating and a hot water bottle every morning. Why the cold is not the price of a July safari but the reason it works.

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Woman in sunglasses on a sunlit Budapest street with St Stephen's Basilica behind
Trip planning · Budapest

Planning a Trip to Budapest: What to Book, What to Skip and What It Costs

The one to read first. When to go, how long you need, where to stay, what a month cost us, and the four things worth booking before you fly.

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Traditional Hungarian langos topped with cheese, chicken, tomato and sour cream
Things to do · Budapest

Things to Do in Budapest: 14 We Actually Did in a Month There

We ran out of tourist things to do in a week and stayed another three. The 14 worth your time, from a free sunrise to a 100 out of 10 cinnamon roll.

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Stacked filled cookies on a counter at Cookie Beacon in Budapest
Trip planning · Budapest

Is Budapest Worth Visiting? We Gave It a Month and We Are Going Back

Anywhere is charming for three days. We stayed 33 nights, so here is what it is like on day nineteen, plus five honest reasons it might not suit you.

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Coffee being made at a % Arabica counter in Budapest
Trip planning · Budapest

Best Time to Visit Budapest: Why We Chose Late Summer

We picked mid August to mid September and got it right. What that window is really like, what we found researching the rest, and the closure that changes it.

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A Budapest street with St Stephen's Basilica rising at the end of it
Where to stay · Budapest

Where to Stay in Budapest: The Areas We Would Book After a Month There

Thirty three nights in one apartment taught us the area matters less than the type of place. The three districts, what we paid, and when a kitchen pays.

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Woman standing in the gilded interior of New York Cafe in Budapest
Food · Budapest

Is New York Cafe Worth It? We Went at 7am and Would Do It Again

Overpriced and still worth doing once. Why the 7am opening changes everything, what to order, and the alternative nobody mentions.

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Woman by the St George fountain in front of the pink Primate's Palace in Bratislava
Day trips · Budapest

Budapest to Bratislava: The Day Trip We Booked the Night Before

Booked at ten the night before, gone by half seven, and the best day of our month. The timings, the ticket mistake, and what to eat.

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Man looking out through a stone arch at Fisherman's Bastion towards Parliament
Trip planning · Budapest

How Many Days in Budapest? We Had 33 and Here Is What I Would Keep

Most guides work up from a short trip. We lived there a month, so here is what we would keep with four nights and what we would cut first.

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Pistachio pancakes and brunch plates at Pink Pistachio in Budapest
Food · Budapest

Where to Eat in Budapest: The Best City for Food I Have Found

After 11 months of travel, the best food city I have been to. Everywhere we actually ate in a month, including the best cinnamon roll anywhere.

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The Hungarian Parliament lit up at night across the Danube in Budapest
Trip planning · Budapest

Is Budapest Expensive? What a Month There Actually Cost Us

A$114 per person per day across 33 nights, and the surprise nobody warns you about: we spent more on groceries than in restaurants.

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Couple on a cave hotel rooftop at sunrise with hot air balloons rising over Cappadocia
Trip planning · Türkiye

Planning a Trip to Turkey: What to Book, What to Skip and What It Costs

The one to read first. We did 18 nights across seven bases and got the nights wrong in four of them. When to go, what it cost, what to book.

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Turkish flag on a gulet deck, with turquoise water and a castle village on the hillside opposite
Two-week itinerary · Türkiye

2 Week Turkey Itinerary: Our Honest 18-Night Road Trip Route

Antalya, a gulet cruise, Bodrum, Alaçatı, Ephesus, Cappadocia and Istanbul, with the nights we would move if we did it again.

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A seafront gelato cart with its vendor under a parasol on the Antalya waterfront
Trip planning · Türkiye

Is Türkiye Safe? Eighteen Nights, Seven Towns, Nothing Happened

No scams, no bad altercations, and some of the friendliest people we met anywhere in Europe. Plus what we honestly cannot tell you.

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Cobbled street with restaurants and bougainvillea in Alaçatı
Destination guide · Türkiye

Çeşme and Alaçatı: The 100 Out of 10 Nobody Told Us About

The surprise of the trip. Cobbled streets, the best beach we found in Türkiye, and Ephesus on the drive in.

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Hot air balloons rising over the valley at sunrise in Cappadocia
Things to do · Türkiye

Cappadocia Without the Balloon Ride: We Watched From the Roof

We never went up. The cave hotel rooftop gave us the same sunrise for nothing, and it was the best morning of the trip.

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Fairy chimneys and cave houses seen over a flower-filled terrace in Cappadocia
Trip planning · Türkiye

How Many Days in Cappadocia? We Did Two and It Was Not Enough

Two nights gives you one sunrise, and the balloons get cancelled. Three is the number, and this is why.

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Cliffs above a small beach club and swimming platform in Antalya
Trip planning · Türkiye

Is Antalya Worth Visiting? I Rated It 9.5 Out of 10

The cheapest base of our Türkiye trip and nearly the best. Free cove beaches, A$88 a night, and why two nights was a mistake.

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Medical scan on a monitor during a full body health check in Istanbul
Istanbul · Türkiye

We Got a Full Body Health Check in Istanbul: What It Cost

A full day of tests at a private hospital, results the same afternoon, and the US$1,200 Dan paid. Ellen's was a collaboration.

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Rails and shelves of vintage clothing and sunglasses in a shop in Galata
Istanbul · Türkiye

Vintage Shopping in Istanbul: One Street, and Bring Space

The best vintage shopping I have seen anywhere, and it is all on Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi in Galata. Walk all the way down.

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Fairy chimneys and cave houses above a rooftop terrace in Cappadocia
Where to stay · Türkiye

Where to Stay in Türkiye: All Seven Bases and What We Paid

From an A$88 apartment in Istanbul to a A$170 cave hotel in Cappadocia, and the one base we would change.

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Clear turquoise water below white rock ledges at Delikli Koy beach near Çeşme
Trip planning · Türkiye

Türkiye in June and July: What Peak Season Is Actually Like

The heat, the crowds and the four things worth knowing, from the exact fortnight everyone tells you to avoid.

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Woman at a rooftop restaurant table with the Blue Mosque behind in Istanbul
Trip planning · Türkiye

How Many Days in Istanbul? We Did Four and Would Do Three

Four nights was one too many. What three should look like, and when a fourth genuinely earns its place.

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Fishing boats moored in the old harbour at Antalya below the stone walls of the old town
Comparisons · Türkiye

Antalya or Bodrum? We Stayed in Both, Five Days Apart

Same trip, same two people, same card. Antalya 9.5/10 at A$90 a day, Bodrum 8.5/10 at A$172. Which to pick.

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Cabana with white curtains on a wooden deck over the sea at Villa Azur beach club in Bodrum
Trip planning · Türkiye

Is Bodrum Expensive? What Three Nights Really Cost Us

Bodrum cost nearly twice as much per day as Antalya. The beach club prices, and the dinner that took half the budget.

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Sunset over the bay behind the Zuma restaurant sign in Bodrum, Türkiye
Trip planning · Türkiye

Is Türkiye Expensive? What 18 Nights Actually Cost Us

Eighty transactions across seven bases. A$164.55 per person per day, and one dinner that took twelve per cent of it.

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Beach bar on the sand looking out over the horseshoe bay at Hiriketiya, Sri Lanka
Town guide · Sri Lanka

Hiriketiya, Sri Lanka: Why We Only Gave It 2 Nights and Regret It

One small horseshoe bay with the best surf, the best food and the best night out on the whole south coast. I rated it 10000 out of 10.

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Fishermen in outrigger canoes on calm water at sunset on the south coast of Sri Lanka
Trip planning · Sri Lanka

Is Sri Lanka Safe? What a Month There Was Actually Like

28 nights, five towns, a moped and a lot of cash. No incidents and no scams, and one thing that genuinely worried me.

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Tall coconut palms on a headland above the sea at Coconut Tree Hill, Mirissa, Sri Lanka
Beaches · Sri Lanka

Best Beaches in Southern Sri Lanka: All 6 We Actually Swam At

Six beaches between Hikkaduwa and Tangalle, every one of them somewhere we swam, with the honest verdict on each.

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Breakfast plate and coffee at Nomad Cafe in Weligama, Sri Lanka
Food guide · Sri Lanka

Where to Eat in Southern Sri Lanka: 16 Places We Actually Ate

Our food bill came to more than our accommodation. Sixteen places we genuinely sat down at, from cash-only curry to the best gelato I have had.

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Palm trees leaning over shallow turquoise water at Hikkaduwa beach, Sri Lanka
Town guide · Sri Lanka

Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka: 14 Nights in Our First Base

The best sunsets in the country, baby turtles on the sand, and the day trip that turned out to be the best of our whole trip. Three nights is enough.

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Thatched cafe with tables and garden seating at Moochies in Weligama, Sri Lanka
Town guide · Sri Lanka

Weligama, Sri Lanka: The Best Base for a First Trip

Not my favourite town and still the one I would book. Best surf for learning, best food on the coast, and Mirissa ten minutes away.

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Sun setting over the ocean through coconut palms on the south coast of Sri Lanka
Honest review · Sri Lanka

Is Sri Lanka Worth Visiting? My Honest Answer After a Month There

One of my three favourite countries, and I am still going to tell you about the driving, the ATMs and the beach I did not rate.

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Long lap pool seen through an open pavilion at a villa near Tangalle, Sri Lanka
Where to stay · Sri Lanka

Where to Stay in Southern Sri Lanka: My 6 Favourite Bases

Six bases in 28 nights, ranked by how much I want to go back rather than how long we stayed. We gave the best one two nights.

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Wild elephant standing on a road surrounded by jungle near Yala National Park, Sri Lanka
Things to do · Sri Lanka

Things to Do in Southern Sri Lanka: 11 We Actually Did

Only the things we genuinely did, which means no Ella and no hill country. Wild turtles, a sloth bear, and a moped at six dollars a day.

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Curved sandy bay backed by a jungle headland on the south coast of Sri Lanka
Trip planning · Sri Lanka

How Long Do You Need in Sri Lanka? My 14 Night Itinerary

We had 28 nights and still split them wrong. Fourteen in the first town and two in my favourite, so here is the version I would give you.

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Sunset over the sea with a storm cloud and palm silhouettes on the south coast of Sri Lanka
Trip planning · Sri Lanka

Best Time to Visit Southern Sri Lanka: What April Is Actually Like

We went at the tail end of the dry season and got thunderstorms. What that actually meant day to day, and which coast to pick for your month.

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Beach cafe under a thatched roof looking out over the sand and sea at Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka
Costs · Sri Lanka

Is Sri Lanka Expensive? Our Exact Costs After 28 Days

Seventy four tracked transactions. We spent nearly three times what the guides say, and our food cost more than our beds.

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Palm fronds silhouetted against a golden sunset over the sea on the Moroccan coast
Things to do · Morocco

13 Things We Actually Did in Morocco (and What Each One Cost)

Not the 35 things you could do. The 13 we did across 24 days, ranked, with the real price beside each one, and the ones we skipped.

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Moroccan pastries and dips served in woven baskets on a table in Tamraght, Morocco
Food guide · Morocco

Where to Eat in Taghazout and Tamraght: My 8 Favourite Spots

Sixteen nights of eating on Morocco's surf coast. The 8 places we went back to, what each cost, and the one we visited three days running.

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Palm trees and low buildings under a clear blue sky at Taghazout Bay, Morocco
Trip planning · Morocco

Best Time to Visit Morocco: Why We Went in Winter and Would Do It Again

Morocco is three climates at once. Beach weather on the coast, 2 degrees in the Sahara, and low season prices everywhere.

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Sunset over the sea and rooftops of Taghazout on the Moroccan surf coast
Region guide · Morocco

Taghazout and Tamraght, Morocco: My Honest Guide After 16 Nights

We booked four nights on the surf coast and stayed sixteen. Which town to pick, where to stay in each, and what a day here actually costs.

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Handwoven Berber rugs hanging on a wall against a deep blue sky in Marrakech, Morocco
Honest review · Morocco

Is Marrakech Worth Visiting? My Honest Review After 4 Nights

Two people tried to pull us into a shop in an entire day. Why the souks are far gentler than their reputation, and what I did and did not love.

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Ellen sitting in a brightly painted cafe with lanterns and patterned cushions in Marrakech, Morocco
Trip planning · Morocco

How Many Days in Marrakech Do You Need? My Honest Answer After 4 Nights

Three nights, and here is exactly how to spend each one. Plus why splitting your Marrakech stay in two beats doing it in one block.

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Brightly coloured wool tassels hanging above a busy lane in the Marrakech souks, Morocco
Travel costs · Morocco

Is Morocco Expensive? My Honest Cost Breakdown After 24 Days

A$63.95 a day per person, measured twice by two people and A$2.65 apart. Real prices for food, coffee, riads, trains and the Sahara.

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Riad courtyard in daylight with a fountain, orange trees and arched galleries in Marrakech, Morocco
Where to stay · Morocco

What Is a Riad? My Honest Review of the 2 Marrakech Riads I Booked

A$184 a night versus A$91, and what you actually get for the difference. Both rated, both linked, and the one I would book again.

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Ellen in a desert scarf standing on the sand dunes at Merzouga in the Sahara, Morocco
Tour guide · Morocco

Marrakech to Merzouga: Every Stop on the 3 Day Sahara Tour, and What It Cost

The Atlas pass, the film set village, the carpet weaving and the dunes. Every stop, the full cost breakdown and how to choose the right tour.

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Ellen and Daniel wearing desert scarves at sunset on the dunes of the Sahara at Merzouga, Morocco
Experience · Morocco

The Sahara Desert in Morocco: What Two Nights in Merzouga Are Really Like

The camel ride in, the camp, the drumming and the 2 degree sunrise. What we paid, what nobody warned us about and whether it is worth it.

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A cook preparing breakfast in a homestay kitchen in the Albanian Alps
Travel money · Albania

Albania Currency: What the Lek Actually Buys

Thirteen real prices in lek from two weeks of tracked spending, how much cash you need and where euros actually work.

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Sunset over the islands seen from a restaurant terrace in Ksamil, Albania
Destination guide · Albania

Ksamil, Albania: What It Is Really Like, and Why We Would Day Trip It

The best water we saw in Albania and the most expensive place we slept. What the beaches are actually like and how to do it in a day.

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Guesthouse and garden below the mountains in the Valbonë valley, Albania
Where to stay · Albania

Where to Stay in Albania: The Three Bases We Would Book Again

Six real stays in fourteen nights, what each cost per night, the three towns worth basing in and the two we would skip.

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Grunas Waterfall falling into a rocky gorge near Theth in the Albanian Alps
Region guide · Albania

The Albanian Alps: Everything We Learned in the Accursed Mountains

Shala River, the Valbonë homestay, the pass to Theth and the Blue Eye. What we booked, what it cost and the three things we would change.

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Vine-covered terrace with a table looking over rooftops to the bay at Himarë, Albania
Things to do · Albania

Best Things to Do in Himarë: Why It Was Our Favourite Stop in Albania

The boat trip worth getting up early for, the two restaurants we still talk about and the only coastal town we wanted more of.

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Daniel looking out over the bay from Lëkurësi Castle above Sarandë at sunset, Albania
Trip planning · Albania

How Many Days Do You Need in Albania? Our Honest Answer After Two Weeks

Ten to fourteen days, and here is the split we would book instead of the one we did. Four of our 14 nights were in the wrong place.

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Daniel standing in clear shallow water at Pulëbardha Beach near Sarandë, Albania
Travel costs · Albania

Is Albania Expensive? What Two Weeks Actually Cost Us

Every lek we spent in July, why our median day was A$84.70 and how three afternoons took more than half the budget.

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Hikers on a rocky outcrop in the Albanian Alps on the Valbonë to Theth trail
Hiking guide · Albania

Valbonë to Theth Hike: Our Honest Guide to the Route and Difficulty

How hard it actually is, how long it takes, what our Albanian Alps package cost and what we would do differently.

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Beach umbrellas beside turquoise water at Ksamil, Albania
Where to stay · Albania

Sarandë or Ksamil: Where Should You Stay?

We stayed in both on the Albanian Riviera. Which to base yourself in, and the beach that beat them both.

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Egypt
Two-week itinerary · Egypt

2 Week Egypt Itinerary: Our Honest 15-Day Route

Our first-hand route from the pyramids and Siwa Oasis to Luxor and the Red Sea.

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Ancient Egyptian statues inside the Grand Egyptian Museum in Giza
Things to do · Egypt

Best Things to Do in Cairo and Giza: What We Actually Did

The pyramids, Sphinx, Grand Egyptian Museum, markets and the planning choices that made our first visit better.

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Dahab waterfront and mountains at sunset beside the Red Sea
Where to stay · Egypt

Where to Stay in Dahab: Best Area and Our Honest Pick

Lighthouse, Mashraba, Assalah and the waterfront apartment I would book if we went back.

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Ellen wearing loose trousers and a scarf at the Temple of Hatshepsut
Packing guide · Egypt

What to Wear in Egypt: My Packing Guide for Women

The outfits and layers that worked across Cairo, Siwa, Luxor and the Red Sea during our 15-day trip.

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Painted tomb corridor inside the Valley of the Kings in Luxor, Egypt
Tomb guide · Egypt

Valley of the Kings Guide: What We Wish We Knew Before Visiting

Tickets, the three tombs we chose, how long you need, when to go and the mistakes we would avoid.

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Dahab waterfront cafe beside the Red Sea in Egypt
Honest destination guide · Egypt

Is Dahab Worth Visiting? Our Honest Take After Two Nights

How many days you need, the Blue Hole, where to stay, our favourite food and who will genuinely love Dahab.

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Mummy displayed inside the Grand Egyptian Museum in Giza
First-time guide · Egypt

Egypt Travel Tips: 17 Things to Know Before You Go

The cash, clothing, guides, transport and planning lessons we learned across our 15-day route.

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Pyramid-view restaurant terrace in Giza, Egypt
Where to stay · Egypt

Cairo or Giza: Where Should You Stay on Your First Visit?

Our honest comparison after staying beside the pyramids and returning to Cairo, plus the split we would book.

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Sunset over the Red Sea in Hurghada, Egypt
Red Sea comparison · Egypt

Dahab or Hurghada? We Visited Both and Here's Where We'd Return

Our honest comparison of the atmosphere, snorkelling, food, hotels, travel time and which place we would choose.

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Daniel floating in a turquoise salt lake in Siwa Oasis, Egypt
Oasis itinerary · Egypt

Siwa Oasis Itinerary: How We Visited From Cairo & What We'd Do Differently

Our tested two-night route, honest three-night recommendation, salt lakes, hotel and Cairo transport.

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An Egyptologist explaining original carvings inside the Temple of Hatshepsut on Luxor's West Bank
West Bank guide · Egypt

Luxor West Bank Guide: What to See, Where to Stay & How to Plan It

Our first-hand guide to the essential sites, one-day route, Nile crossings and quieter West Bank stays.

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Ellen sailing on the Nile beside traditional feluccas in Luxor
Trip planning · Egypt

How Many Days in Luxor? Our Honest 4-Night Guide

What fits into one, two, three or four days, based on our four-night stay beside the Nile.

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Ellen standing at the base of the Great Pyramid of Giza
Travel costs · Egypt

Is Egypt Expensive? What We Spent in 15 Days

Our exact per-person costs for accommodation, food, transport, activities, cash and flights.

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Ellen inside El Ateneo Grand Splendid in Buenos Aires
Trip planning · Argentina

How Many Days in Buenos Aires? Our Honest Answer After 19 Days

What you can realistically see in two, three, five or seven days, based on our 19-day stay.

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Daniel choosing fresh fruit at a neighbourhood produce shop in Palermo, Buenos Aires
Where to stay · Argentina

Where to Stay in Buenos Aires: Palermo Soho vs Hollywood

Our honest first-time guide after living in both Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood across 18 nights.

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Breakfast spread at Stain café in Palermo, Buenos Aires
Travel costs · Argentina

Is Buenos Aires Expensive? What We Actually Spent in 19 Days

Every dollar from 19 days, including our apartments, food, activities, shopping and recorded flight costs.

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Colourful buildings along Caminito in La Boca, Buenos Aires
Things to do · Argentina

The Best Things to Do in Buenos Aires (What We Actually Loved)

What we genuinely loved after nearly three weeks, including La Boca, San Telmo, tango, Palermo cafés and where to stay.

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Buenos Aires, Argentina
Destination review · Argentina

Is Buenos Aires Worth Visiting? Our Honest Take After Nearly Three Weeks

Our honest take after nearly three weeks: where to stay in Palermo, the best steak, the cafés and the vintage shopping.

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