The blog

Travel blogs and honest guides from the road

Where to stay, what to do, the hidden gems worth a detour and whether each place lives up to the hype. Real trips from 18 months of full-time travel. 51 countries and counting.

Ellen standing with a bicycle above the turquoise coast of La Digue in Seychelles
Trip planning · Seychelles

Planning a Trip to Seychelles: What to Book and How to Island-Hop

The practical guide we wanted before our first trip, including our 8-day route, ferries, cars, stays and real costs.

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Ellen at the water's edge at Petite Anse on Mahe in Seychelles
Honest review · Seychelles

Is Seychelles Worth Visiting? Our Honest Answer After 12 Days

What made it a 10 out of 10, what we did not love and who I think should actually book the trip.

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A giant Aldabra tortoise on Curieuse Island in Seychelles
Island day trip · Seychelles

Curieuse Island Day Trip: Exact Cost and Honest Review

The exact tour we booked from Praslin, what it cost and what the tortoise, island walk, barbecue and snorkelling day was really like.

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A rainbow above Beau Vallon beach and the green mountains of Mahe in Seychelles
Travel costs · Seychelles

Is Seychelles Expensive? Our Real 12-Day Costs for Two

Every dollar from our trip across three islands, including stays, ferries, cars, food, activities and international flights.

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Aerial view of granite boulders and turquoise shallows at Anse Source d'Argent on La Digue
Best beaches · Seychelles

10 Best Beaches in Seychelles: What They Are Really Like

Our honest picks for swimming, scenery and access across Mahe, Praslin and La Digue, including the beaches too rough for us in August.

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Aerial view of hillside villas above Petite Anse beach on Mahe in Seychelles
Where to stay · Seychelles

Where to Stay in Seychelles: Mahé, Praslin or La Digue?

Four places we actually stayed, what each cost and the one island base we would change next time.

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Aerial view of turquoise water, white sand and palms at Petite Anse on Mahe in Seychelles
Things to do · Seychelles

16 Best Things to Do in Seychelles Across 3 Islands

What we actually did across Mahe, Praslin and La Digue, from giant tortoises and hidden beaches to a free outdoor gym.

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White sand, granite boulders and palms above turquoise water at Petite Anse on Mahe, Seychelles, with a woman lying on the beach
Best time to visit · Seychelles

Best Time to Visit Seychelles: What August Is Really Like

We went in the windiest month of the year and swam nearly every day. The one rule for picking a beach in the trade wind season, and when we would go instead.

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An elephant seen from inside a safari vehicle at Welgevonden Game Reserve
Safari · South Africa

Did We See the Big Five in Seven Days? Our Honest Record

Every article on this hedges. Here is exactly what we saw and when. Four came fast, and the leopard took until day six and lasted about eleven seconds.

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Close up of a giraffe's head and neck against a clear blue sky at Welgevonden
Safari · South Africa

Safari in July: We Froze, and It Was the Right Month

Nights below 3C, a fireplace as the only heating and a hot water bottle every morning. Why the cold is not the price of a July safari but the reason it works.

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Woman in sunglasses on a sunlit Budapest street with St Stephen's Basilica behind
Trip planning · Budapest

Planning a Trip to Budapest: What to Book, What to Skip and What It Costs

The one to read first. When to go, how long you need, where to stay, what a month cost us, and the four things worth booking before you fly.

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Traditional Hungarian langos topped with cheese, chicken, tomato and sour cream
Things to do · Budapest

Things to Do in Budapest: 14 We Actually Did in a Month There

We ran out of tourist things to do in a week and stayed another three. The 14 worth your time, from a free sunrise to a 100 out of 10 cinnamon roll.

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Stacked filled cookies on a counter at Cookie Beacon in Budapest
Trip planning · Budapest

Is Budapest Worth Visiting? We Gave It a Month and We Are Going Back

Anywhere is charming for three days. We stayed 33 nights, so here is what it is like on day nineteen, plus five honest reasons it might not suit you.

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Coffee being made at a % Arabica counter in Budapest
Trip planning · Budapest

Best Time to Visit Budapest: Why We Chose Late Summer

We picked mid August to mid September and got it right. What that window is really like, what we found researching the rest, and the closure that changes it.

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A Budapest street with St Stephen's Basilica rising at the end of it
Where to stay · Budapest

Where to Stay in Budapest: The Areas We Would Book After a Month There

Thirty three nights in one apartment taught us the area matters less than the type of place. The three districts, what we paid, and when a kitchen pays.

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Woman standing in the gilded interior of New York Cafe in Budapest
Food · Budapest

Is New York Cafe Worth It? We Went at 7am and Would Do It Again

Overpriced and still worth doing once. Why the 7am opening changes everything, what to order, and the alternative nobody mentions.

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Woman by the St George fountain in front of the pink Primate's Palace in Bratislava
Day trips · Budapest

Budapest to Bratislava: The Day Trip We Booked the Night Before

Booked at ten the night before, gone by half seven, and the best day of our month. The timings, the ticket mistake, and what to eat.

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Man looking out through a stone arch at Fisherman's Bastion towards Parliament
Trip planning · Budapest

How Many Days in Budapest? We Had 33 and Here Is What I Would Keep

Most guides work up from a short trip. We lived there a month, so here is what we would keep with four nights and what we would cut first.

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Pistachio pancakes and brunch plates at Pink Pistachio in Budapest
Food · Budapest

Where to Eat in Budapest: The Best City for Food I Have Found

After 11 months of travel, the best food city I have been to. Everywhere we actually ate in a month, including the best cinnamon roll anywhere.

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The Hungarian Parliament lit up at night across the Danube in Budapest
Trip planning · Budapest

Is Budapest Expensive? What a Month There Actually Cost Us

A$114 per person per day across 33 nights, and the surprise nobody warns you about: we spent more on groceries than in restaurants.

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Couple on a cave hotel rooftop at sunrise with hot air balloons rising over Cappadocia
Trip planning · Türkiye

Planning a Trip to Turkey: What to Book, What to Skip and What It Costs

The one to read first. We did 18 nights across seven bases and got the nights wrong in four of them. When to go, what it cost, what to book.

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Turkish flag on a gulet deck, with turquoise water and a castle village on the hillside opposite
Two-week itinerary · Türkiye

2 Week Turkey Itinerary: Our Honest 18-Night Road Trip Route

Antalya, a gulet cruise, Bodrum, Alaçatı, Ephesus, Cappadocia and Istanbul, with the nights we would move if we did it again.

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A seafront gelato cart with its vendor under a parasol on the Antalya waterfront
Trip planning · Türkiye

Is Türkiye Safe? Eighteen Nights, Seven Towns, Nothing Happened

No scams, no bad altercations, and some of the friendliest people we met anywhere in Europe. Plus what we honestly cannot tell you.

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Cobbled street with restaurants and bougainvillea in Alaçatı
Destination guide · Türkiye

Çeşme and Alaçatı: The 100 Out of 10 Nobody Told Us About

The surprise of the trip. Cobbled streets, the best beach we found in Türkiye, and Ephesus on the drive in.

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Hot air balloons rising over the valley at sunrise in Cappadocia
Things to do · Türkiye

Cappadocia Without the Balloon Ride: We Watched From the Roof

We never went up. The cave hotel rooftop gave us the same sunrise for nothing, and it was the best morning of the trip.

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Fairy chimneys and cave houses seen over a flower-filled terrace in Cappadocia
Trip planning · Türkiye

How Many Days in Cappadocia? We Did Two and It Was Not Enough

Two nights gives you one sunrise, and the balloons get cancelled. Three is the number, and this is why.

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Cliffs above a small beach club and swimming platform in Antalya
Trip planning · Türkiye

Is Antalya Worth Visiting? I Rated It 9.5 Out of 10

The cheapest base of our Türkiye trip and nearly the best. Free cove beaches, A$88 a night, and why two nights was a mistake.

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Medical scan on a monitor during a full body health check in Istanbul
Istanbul · Türkiye

We Got a Full Body Health Check in Istanbul: What It Cost

A full day of tests at a private hospital, results the same afternoon, and the US$1,200 Dan paid. Ellen's was a collaboration.

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Rails and shelves of vintage clothing and sunglasses in a shop in Galata
Istanbul · Türkiye

Vintage Shopping in Istanbul: One Street, and Bring Space

The best vintage shopping I have seen anywhere, and it is all on Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi in Galata. Walk all the way down.

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Fairy chimneys and cave houses above a rooftop terrace in Cappadocia
Where to stay · Türkiye

Where to Stay in Türkiye: All Seven Bases and What We Paid

From an A$88 apartment in Istanbul to a A$170 cave hotel in Cappadocia, and the one base we would change.

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Clear turquoise water below white rock ledges at Delikli Koy beach near Çeşme
Trip planning · Türkiye

Türkiye in June and July: What Peak Season Is Actually Like

The heat, the crowds and the four things worth knowing, from the exact fortnight everyone tells you to avoid.

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Woman at a rooftop restaurant table with the Blue Mosque behind in Istanbul
Trip planning · Türkiye

How Many Days in Istanbul? We Did Four and Would Do Three

Four nights was one too many. What three should look like, and when a fourth genuinely earns its place.

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Fishing boats moored in the old harbour at Antalya below the stone walls of the old town
Comparisons · Türkiye

Antalya or Bodrum? We Stayed in Both, Five Days Apart

Same trip, same two people, same card. Antalya 9.5/10 at A$90 a day, Bodrum 8.5/10 at A$172. Which to pick.

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Cabana with white curtains on a wooden deck over the sea at Villa Azur beach club in Bodrum
Trip planning · Türkiye

Is Bodrum Expensive? What Three Nights Really Cost Us

Bodrum cost nearly twice as much per day as Antalya. The beach club prices, and the dinner that took half the budget.

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Sunset over the bay behind the Zuma restaurant sign in Bodrum, Türkiye
Trip planning · Türkiye

Is Türkiye Expensive? What 18 Nights Actually Cost Us

Eighty transactions across seven bases. A$164.55 per person per day, and one dinner that took twelve per cent of it.

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Beach bar on the sand looking out over the horseshoe bay at Hiriketiya, Sri Lanka
Town guide · Sri Lanka

Hiriketiya, Sri Lanka: Why We Only Gave It 2 Nights and Regret It

One small horseshoe bay with the best surf, the best food and the best night out on the whole south coast. I rated it 10000 out of 10.

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Fishermen in outrigger canoes on calm water at sunset on the south coast of Sri Lanka
Trip planning · Sri Lanka

Is Sri Lanka Safe? What a Month There Was Actually Like

28 nights, five towns, a moped and a lot of cash. No incidents and no scams, and one thing that genuinely worried me.

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Tall coconut palms on a headland above the sea at Coconut Tree Hill, Mirissa, Sri Lanka
Beaches · Sri Lanka

Best Beaches in Southern Sri Lanka: All 6 We Actually Swam At

Six beaches between Hikkaduwa and Tangalle, every one of them somewhere we swam, with the honest verdict on each.

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Breakfast plate and coffee at Nomad Cafe in Weligama, Sri Lanka
Food guide · Sri Lanka

Where to Eat in Southern Sri Lanka: 16 Places We Actually Ate

Our food bill came to more than our accommodation. Sixteen places we genuinely sat down at, from cash-only curry to the best gelato I have had.

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Palm trees leaning over shallow turquoise water at Hikkaduwa beach, Sri Lanka
Town guide · Sri Lanka

Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka: 14 Nights in Our First Base

The best sunsets in the country, baby turtles on the sand, and the day trip that turned out to be the best of our whole trip. Three nights is enough.

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Thatched cafe with tables and garden seating at Moochies in Weligama, Sri Lanka
Town guide · Sri Lanka

Weligama, Sri Lanka: The Best Base for a First Trip

Not my favourite town and still the one I would book. Best surf for learning, best food on the coast, and Mirissa ten minutes away.

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Sun setting over the ocean through coconut palms on the south coast of Sri Lanka
Honest review · Sri Lanka

Is Sri Lanka Worth Visiting? My Honest Answer After a Month There

One of my three favourite countries, and I am still going to tell you about the driving, the ATMs and the beach I did not rate.

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Long lap pool seen through an open pavilion at a villa near Tangalle, Sri Lanka
Where to stay · Sri Lanka

Where to Stay in Southern Sri Lanka: My 6 Favourite Bases

Six bases in 28 nights, ranked by how much I want to go back rather than how long we stayed. We gave the best one two nights.

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Wild elephant standing on a road surrounded by jungle near Yala National Park, Sri Lanka
Things to do · Sri Lanka

Things to Do in Southern Sri Lanka: 11 We Actually Did

Only the things we genuinely did, which means no Ella and no hill country. Wild turtles, a sloth bear, and a moped at six dollars a day.

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Curved sandy bay backed by a jungle headland on the south coast of Sri Lanka
Trip planning · Sri Lanka

How Long Do You Need in Sri Lanka? My 14 Night Itinerary

We had 28 nights and still split them wrong. Fourteen in the first town and two in my favourite, so here is the version I would give you.

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Sunset over the sea with a storm cloud and palm silhouettes on the south coast of Sri Lanka
Trip planning · Sri Lanka

Best Time to Visit Southern Sri Lanka: What April Is Actually Like

We went at the tail end of the dry season and got thunderstorms. What that actually meant day to day, and which coast to pick for your month.

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Beach cafe under a thatched roof looking out over the sand and sea at Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka
Costs · Sri Lanka

Is Sri Lanka Expensive? Our Exact Costs After 28 Days

Seventy four tracked transactions. We spent nearly three times what the guides say, and our food cost more than our beds.

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Palm fronds silhouetted against a golden sunset over the sea on the Moroccan coast
Things to do · Morocco

13 Things We Actually Did in Morocco (and What Each One Cost)

Not the 35 things you could do. The 13 we did across 24 days, ranked, with the real price beside each one, and the ones we skipped.

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Moroccan pastries and dips served in woven baskets on a table in Tamraght, Morocco
Food guide · Morocco

Where to Eat in Taghazout and Tamraght: My 8 Favourite Spots

Sixteen nights of eating on Morocco's surf coast. The 8 places we went back to, what each cost, and the one we visited three days running.

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Palm trees and low buildings under a clear blue sky at Taghazout Bay, Morocco
Trip planning · Morocco

Best Time to Visit Morocco: Why We Went in Winter and Would Do It Again

Morocco is three climates at once. Beach weather on the coast, 2 degrees in the Sahara, and low season prices everywhere.

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Sunset over the sea and rooftops of Taghazout on the Moroccan surf coast
Region guide · Morocco

Taghazout and Tamraght, Morocco: My Honest Guide After 16 Nights

We booked four nights on the surf coast and stayed sixteen. Which town to pick, where to stay in each, and what a day here actually costs.

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Handwoven Berber rugs hanging on a wall against a deep blue sky in Marrakech, Morocco
Honest review · Morocco

Is Marrakech Worth Visiting? My Honest Review After 4 Nights

Two people tried to pull us into a shop in an entire day. Why the souks are far gentler than their reputation, and what I did and did not love.

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Ellen sitting in a brightly painted cafe with lanterns and patterned cushions in Marrakech, Morocco
Trip planning · Morocco

How Many Days in Marrakech Do You Need? My Honest Answer After 4 Nights

Three nights, and here is exactly how to spend each one. Plus why splitting your Marrakech stay in two beats doing it in one block.

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Brightly coloured wool tassels hanging above a busy lane in the Marrakech souks, Morocco
Travel costs · Morocco

Is Morocco Expensive? My Honest Cost Breakdown After 24 Days

A$63.95 a day per person, measured twice by two people and A$2.65 apart. Real prices for food, coffee, riads, trains and the Sahara.

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Riad courtyard in daylight with a fountain, orange trees and arched galleries in Marrakech, Morocco
Where to stay · Morocco

What Is a Riad? My Honest Review of the 2 Marrakech Riads I Booked

A$184 a night versus A$91, and what you actually get for the difference. Both rated, both linked, and the one I would book again.

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Ellen in a desert scarf standing on the sand dunes at Merzouga in the Sahara, Morocco
Tour guide · Morocco

Marrakech to Merzouga: Every Stop on the 3 Day Sahara Tour, and What It Cost

The Atlas pass, the film set village, the carpet weaving and the dunes. Every stop, the full cost breakdown and how to choose the right tour.

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Ellen and Daniel wearing desert scarves at sunset on the dunes of the Sahara at Merzouga, Morocco
Experience · Morocco

The Sahara Desert in Morocco: What Two Nights in Merzouga Are Really Like

The camel ride in, the camp, the drumming and the 2 degree sunrise. What we paid, what nobody warned us about and whether it is worth it.

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A cook preparing breakfast in a homestay kitchen in the Albanian Alps
Travel money · Albania

Albania Currency: What the Lek Actually Buys

Thirteen real prices in lek from two weeks of tracked spending, how much cash you need and where euros actually work.

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Sunset over the islands seen from a restaurant terrace in Ksamil, Albania
Destination guide · Albania

Ksamil, Albania: What It Is Really Like, and Why We Would Day Trip It

The best water we saw in Albania and the most expensive place we slept. What the beaches are actually like and how to do it in a day.

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Guesthouse and garden below the mountains in the Valbonë valley, Albania
Where to stay · Albania

Where to Stay in Albania: The Three Bases We Would Book Again

Six real stays in fourteen nights, what each cost per night, the three towns worth basing in and the two we would skip.

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Grunas Waterfall falling into a rocky gorge near Theth in the Albanian Alps
Region guide · Albania

The Albanian Alps: Everything We Learned in the Accursed Mountains

Shala River, the Valbonë homestay, the pass to Theth and the Blue Eye. What we booked, what it cost and the three things we would change.

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Vine-covered terrace with a table looking over rooftops to the bay at Himarë, Albania
Things to do · Albania

Best Things to Do in Himarë: Why It Was Our Favourite Stop in Albania

The boat trip worth getting up early for, the two restaurants we still talk about and the only coastal town we wanted more of.

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Daniel looking out over the bay from Lëkurësi Castle above Sarandë at sunset, Albania
Trip planning · Albania

How Many Days Do You Need in Albania? Our Honest Answer After Two Weeks

Ten to fourteen days, and here is the split we would book instead of the one we did. Four of our 14 nights were in the wrong place.

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Daniel standing in clear shallow water at Pulëbardha Beach near Sarandë, Albania
Travel costs · Albania

Is Albania Expensive? What Two Weeks Actually Cost Us

Every lek we spent in July, why our median day was A$84.70 and how three afternoons took more than half the budget.

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Hikers on a rocky outcrop in the Albanian Alps on the Valbonë to Theth trail
Hiking guide · Albania

Valbonë to Theth Hike: Our Honest Guide to the Route and Difficulty

How hard it actually is, how long it takes, what our Albanian Alps package cost and what we would do differently.

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Beach umbrellas beside turquoise water at Ksamil, Albania
Where to stay · Albania

Sarandë or Ksamil: Where Should You Stay?

We stayed in both on the Albanian Riviera. Which to base yourself in, and the beach that beat them both.

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Egypt
Two-week itinerary · Egypt

2 Week Egypt Itinerary: Our Honest 15-Day Route

Our first-hand route from the pyramids and Siwa Oasis to Luxor and the Red Sea.

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Ancient Egyptian statues inside the Grand Egyptian Museum in Giza
Things to do · Egypt

Best Things to Do in Cairo and Giza: What We Actually Did

The pyramids, Sphinx, Grand Egyptian Museum, markets and the planning choices that made our first visit better.

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Dahab waterfront and mountains at sunset beside the Red Sea
Where to stay · Egypt

Where to Stay in Dahab: Best Area and Our Honest Pick

Lighthouse, Mashraba, Assalah and the waterfront apartment I would book if we went back.

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Ellen wearing loose trousers and a scarf at the Temple of Hatshepsut
Packing guide · Egypt

What to Wear in Egypt: My Packing Guide for Women

The outfits and layers that worked across Cairo, Siwa, Luxor and the Red Sea during our 15-day trip.

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Painted tomb corridor inside the Valley of the Kings in Luxor, Egypt
Tomb guide · Egypt

Valley of the Kings Guide: What We Wish We Knew Before Visiting

Tickets, the three tombs we chose, how long you need, when to go and the mistakes we would avoid.

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Dahab waterfront cafe beside the Red Sea in Egypt
Honest destination guide · Egypt

Is Dahab Worth Visiting? Our Honest Take After Two Nights

How many days you need, the Blue Hole, where to stay, our favourite food and who will genuinely love Dahab.

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Mummy displayed inside the Grand Egyptian Museum in Giza
First-time guide · Egypt

Egypt Travel Tips: 17 Things to Know Before You Go

The cash, clothing, guides, transport and planning lessons we learned across our 15-day route.

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Pyramid-view restaurant terrace in Giza, Egypt
Where to stay · Egypt

Cairo or Giza: Where Should You Stay on Your First Visit?

Our honest comparison after staying beside the pyramids and returning to Cairo, plus the split we would book.

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Sunset over the Red Sea in Hurghada, Egypt
Red Sea comparison · Egypt

Dahab or Hurghada? We Visited Both and Here's Where We'd Return

Our honest comparison of the atmosphere, snorkelling, food, hotels, travel time and which place we would choose.

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Daniel floating in a turquoise salt lake in Siwa Oasis, Egypt
Oasis itinerary · Egypt

Siwa Oasis Itinerary: How We Visited From Cairo & What We'd Do Differently

Our tested two-night route, honest three-night recommendation, salt lakes, hotel and Cairo transport.

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An Egyptologist explaining original carvings inside the Temple of Hatshepsut on Luxor's West Bank
West Bank guide · Egypt

Luxor West Bank Guide: What to See, Where to Stay & How to Plan It

Our first-hand guide to the essential sites, one-day route, Nile crossings and quieter West Bank stays.

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Ellen sailing on the Nile beside traditional feluccas in Luxor
Trip planning · Egypt

How Many Days in Luxor? Our Honest 4-Night Guide

What fits into one, two, three or four days, based on our four-night stay beside the Nile.

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Ellen standing at the base of the Great Pyramid of Giza
Travel costs · Egypt

Is Egypt Expensive? What We Spent in 15 Days

Our exact per-person costs for accommodation, food, transport, activities, cash and flights.

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Ellen inside El Ateneo Grand Splendid in Buenos Aires
Trip planning · Argentina

How Many Days in Buenos Aires? Our Honest Answer After 19 Days

What you can realistically see in two, three, five or seven days, based on our 19-day stay.

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Daniel choosing fresh fruit at a neighbourhood produce shop in Palermo, Buenos Aires
Where to stay · Argentina

Where to Stay in Buenos Aires: Palermo Soho vs Hollywood

Our honest first-time guide after living in both Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood across 18 nights.

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Breakfast spread at Stain café in Palermo, Buenos Aires
Travel costs · Argentina

Is Buenos Aires Expensive? What We Actually Spent in 19 Days

Every dollar from 19 days, including our apartments, food, activities, shopping and recorded flight costs.

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Colourful buildings along Caminito in La Boca, Buenos Aires
Things to do · Argentina

The Best Things to Do in Buenos Aires (What We Actually Loved)

What we genuinely loved after nearly three weeks, including La Boca, San Telmo, tango, Palermo cafés and where to stay.

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Buenos Aires, Argentina
Destination review · Argentina

Is Buenos Aires Worth Visiting? Our Honest Take After Nearly Three Weeks

Our honest take after nearly three weeks: where to stay in Palermo, the best steak, the cafés and the vintage shopping.

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